To Walk Among Giants

Since I was old enough to play outside, I have spent a lot of time in the woods.

Belzoni — As a youngster, a forest canopy provided shelter from the summer sun for my friends and me to play — not to mention the endless supply of fort-building materials they afforded. From the exploration of muddy tadpole holes to the discovery of new and exciting things nature had in store, I always was watched over by those towering trees. Even today, I love spending time in the woods. I don’t take the time to build as many forts as I once did, but climbing a tree in pursuit of the elusive whitetail with my bow brings the same excitement I had as a child tucked inside my tree-branch fort.

Trees are the quintessential part of a forest — as the adage goes, “Don’t miss the forest for the trees” — it’s true. They tower over everything and often shade, literally and figuratively, the complexities of a dynamic forest below. But no discredit is due — trees are one of nature’s most magnificent feats, and an old-growth forest can be mesmerizing, providing a mystical feeling of walking among giants.

A shaded, dense forest offers serenity in itself, but a gaze upon a relict forest with larger-than-life trees that have endured the test of time makes it surreal. And although many are not afforded an opportunity to see the redwood and giant sequoia forests of the western U.S., opportunities to see giants in our own backyard exist right here in the Mississippi Delta.

Recently, I visited the Sky Lake Boardwalk, where visitors have the luxury of exploring an ancient forest that offers a stunning snapshot of history. Entering this forest is like stepping into a time portal showcasing what the Mississippi Delta once possessed to a much greater extent. Before expansive farming in the fertile soils of the Delta, which led to necessary floodwater reduction strategies including water control structures, channelization and levee building, forests like those at Sky Lake Boardwalk were commonplace in the region. I can only imagine the glorious view of expansive sloughs and backwater-flooded forests throughout the Delta and what a wildlife haven that must have been. Although many cypress-tupelo forests still exist in the Delta, their extent has been greatly reduced, making the old growth forest at Sky Lake a rare treasure.

In the grandeur of an ancient forest — the Boardwalk winds through nearly 1,700 feet of swampland.

The Sky Lake Boardwalk is in the heart of the Mississippi Delta and just 8 miles north of Belzoni. A well-constructed boardwalk 10 feet above the flooded forest floor meanders through some of the oldest and largest living bald cypress trees on Earth. I can testify that it’s a rare jewel in the crown of the Mississippi Delta.

Aside from the natural delights, the Sky Lake area grounds also have ample parking, clean restrooms, a water fountain, a picnic pavilion and a guestbook, and all are available to visitors at no cost. Finding the area can be a bit tricky, but the Sky Lake Boardwalk website provides step-by-step directions. Scattered along the well-maintained grounds at the entrance are several remnant cypress logs on display that, as a child, I would have explored and climbed all over — though my parents likely would have disapproved. Storyboards and information panels are situated throughout, explaining the history of the area and how it was preserved for future generations to enjoy.

One can’t help but notice the transition to darkness near the entrance to the cypress-tupelo swamp. It’s extraordinary to walk into a forest possessing relic bald cypress giants — some believed to be more than 1,000 years old. The Sky Lake Boardwalk itself is an impressive feat, spanning more than 1,700 feet through the swamp and providing a unique view of the trees. The boardwalk is handicapped-accessible and even offers benches for resting or drinking in the grandeur of an ancient forest.

In addition to the larger-than-life bald cypress, some other notable tree species are swamp tupelo, elm, honey locust, pecan, persimmon and sugarberry. Along the edge of the backwater, low-growing and fan-shaped leaves of saw palmetto — characteristic in wet areas of the Delta — peek out. Various vines entangle themselves as they climb up some of the shorter-statured trees in the slough and border areas and include red vine, pepper vine and our beautiful morning glory vines. This wetland spectacle offers habitat for a variety of fauna, too, including whitetail deer, a variety of ducks and wading birds, neotropical migratory songbirds and forest-dwelling bats, as well as a diverse array of reptiles and amphibians.

The largest tree along the boardwalk, and one of the largest in the state, appears at the end of the boardwalk. All around this massive giant, cypress knees extend high above the water’s surface and provide a unique view to the attuned spectator. If you look closely, and with even a hint of a creative spirit, myriad faces and shapes unveil themselves among the knees. As a friend and I explored the boardwalk and examined all the cypress knees, we were fascinated by all the gnomes, wizards, Indian headdresses, ghouls and goblins we could depict from the knobby growth of simple tree roots.

A cool feature at Sky Lake I would love to try, of course, is the paddling trail — a 2.6-mile trail offering kayak and canoe access through the heart of the Sky Lake swamp. Paddlers interested in this experience can enter the paddling trail to the east side of the parking lot. The trail includes four paddling segments to traverse, each delineated using different colored signs. In the winter and springtime months, when water levels are most amenable, this would be an exciting adventure offering an excellent means for visitors to experience views of the swamp inaccessible from the boardwalk.

As we toured Sky Lake in the summertime, snakes and alligators were well out-of-reach on the suspended boardwalk — an added bonus for any who wish to see nature from a safe distance. The boardwalk offers a unique viewpoint, with easy walking through one of the most diverse and productive forested ecosystems in the world. I regret not learning about this place until now, as I would have loved for my grandmother to have seen such a beautiful forest — she loved the woods as much as I do. I imagine the stories she would have told as we walked would have been irreplaceable.

Whether you’re a day-trip warrior or a nature buff at heart, making the journey to the Mississippi Delta to see Sky Lake should be a bucket list must. I’ve explored many areas while stalking hogs in cypress bottoms across the Mississippi Delta and have yet to stumble upon such a treasured view as I encountered at Sky Lake. This area is unique and provides a viewpoint of backwater and flooded forests with trees of a stature hard to find nowadays. If you enjoy nature and like seeing big trees even half as much as I do, the Sky Lake Boardwalk is sure to impress.

STORY Nathan Beane
PHOTOGRAPHY Melanie Thortis